Genius in the Works: Moncler’s Collaborations
Just in time for winter.
By Abby Fritz
With winter fastly approaching, attention has shifted to snow-ready clothes. Good thing Moncler’s new approach is revamping winter clothing with their collaboration series, Genius.
Each collection gives designers a chance to showcase their artistic vision while integrating signature Moncler pieces. With highly inventive installations, a focus on social media and young talent, this is a whole new direction for the brand.
Remo Ruffini, president and chief executive, devised Genius for this exact purpose. Ruffini made the decision to move away from seasonal collections to monthly collaborations featured digitally. Moncler is appealing to the faster-paced wishes of millennials and gen zers, who require a more active presence than traditional runway culture.
So far the collaborations are insane. From working with high-end designers like Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino or graphic streetwear artists like Hiroshi Fujiwara of Fragment, the brand is covering all consumers in the modern fashion climate.
Kei Ninomiya’s video included a woman being twirled into the garment, forcing the observer into a futuristic high fashion simulation. Ninomiya stayed true to his love for black and structure during the digital collaboration with Setsuya Kurotaki, featuring close up production shots of grommets and lots of leather.
Simone Rocha also caught attention. Playing off her signature baby-doll dresses, Rocha combined floral patterns, intricate ruffles, and encrusted flowers on vinyl, creating a new-wave Victorian spring. Another strong digital collaboration was formed between Rocha and Tyler Mitchell, the first black photographer to shoot an American Vogue cover. The images fulfilled all our culty garden party dreams.
Craig Green brought a very dynamic display to his installations. Green pushed the boundaries of design featuring his known focus on sculptural pieces and extreme winter jackets with binding. This gave the looks an almost armor-like feel, and as Moncler put it “ideal for an urban (or hypebeast) warrior.”
While the brand’s focus has shifted, Moncler is balancing their effort to stay true to their established luxury customers. The Genius 1952 collection is a wearable high-end option, echoing past traditions like simple structure and bold colors.
This approach has proved to do well for Moncler. Between 2016 and 2017 the brand boasted a 16% increase in sales and an impressive 19% increase in in-store sales with projections looking up for the future.
Moncler has caught the attention of a younger audience and continues to turn heads within the industry — leaving brands like Canada Goose shivering in their snow jackets.